Rain and Surf

Living in a rain forest has it's perks. There is a lot of luscious vegetation, the farmers market is filled with the best produce and waterfalls can be found any where there is a creek. The rain falls daily in the afternoon and temperatures never break 80. It is amazing. However, when you want to go camping, the rain is your enemy. I planned and prepped for two trips last week and they were both rained out. I even rode a bus to a sacred valley that holds some of the most jaw dropping beauty on the island for a 5 day, 16 mile round hike to a 1600 foot waterfall and 10 miles from the nearest town.

When I got off the bus, it was as it the skies had ruptured and every drop of water from the ocean found its way to me. I rode the next bus to the other side of the island to a town called Kona (where I will be later on this trip) because they rarely have rain. No such luck. The entire island was under one massive grey cloud. Instead of a camping trip to seek out mind blowing photographic locations, I found myself spending the day riding busses around the island with 40 pounds of gear and supplies. That's one of the best ways to spend a day, right? I figured you were wishing that's what you got to do today as well. Want to know the gem in it all? I spent 10 hours bus hopping in the rain, but when I looked out the window and stood outside while that water fell on me... I was still in Hawaii. Which in my opinion, makes for a good time, even on a rainy day. At least I have the supplies and knowledge if where to go for this adventure, and the images will be even better knowing the effort to capture them.

As for the surfing, I finally got to give it a try. It wears you out fighting through the waves to sit in a board scanning for the right one to ride. On the first run, I was full of energy and was learning how to balance in the rough water. It took a few moments to get my balance steady to even think about trying to surf a wave. I was informed of the best way to start and not to stand on the first wave, just feel the motion. So that's what I did and it was an awesome rush. I turned around and fought the ocean to get back into position to ride another. While floating and watching the other surfers, I starting seeing turtle heads break the surface around me. I counted five and enjoyed observing them as they swam in my proximity in search of food. After a few moments or serenity, I got back to the surfing. I spotted a wave and rode it, getting up to my knees before getting into shallow waters.

At this point, energy was getting low. I had been in the ocean for about 35 minutes but wanted to get to my feet. My chest was sore from the board wax trying relentlessly to tear my nipples off as the ocean battered the board from side to side and top to bottom. All I tasted and smelt was the salt of the ocean. It took me 15 minutes to get back to the starting position, I decided this was my last run.

After a few long moments trying to stay on my board, I saw the wave with my name on it. I was ready, started paddling and put all my energy into getting up to speed. I caught it right and got to my knees, kept my balance and got to my feet while still grasping the sides of my board. I was almost standing for the first time, about to truly ride my first wave! Then, out of no where, it surfaced.... a damn sea turtle, directly in front of me.

Needless to say, I did not get to my feet. For dinner though... I opted to eat turtle soup.


(I didn't eat a turtle, just wanted to express my new found dissatisfaction for sea turtles.)

Aloha, Hilo!

After several days of stressful travel, we have landed in a good spot in the town of Hilo. Things were rocky when we first arrived, tensions were high as we had to move from hostel to hostel in search of cheaper or more adequate lodging. The first hostel was perfect for the night, since we were under the impression we were only needing to stay a night or two, until we could get set up with the next farm. However, we needed to find a cheaper place for the next night. We were told about one only three blocks down. It had space for us and was half the price. In this case, cheaper was most certainly not better. There were cases of assault, theft and rampant drug usage among the folks living in the surrounding buildings. A fella who was residing at the hostel told us of the problems and suggested we got a secure room. Instead, we opted to sleep with our knives and one eye open.

The next day I went on the hunt for a better place, and that's exactly what was found. Beautiful Arnott's Lodge a few miles outside of town. The ocean has a sweet lagoon that is perfect for watching the waves display their awesome power on the outer rock wall. Its a short 90 second walk from our door. We are checking out this morning after the last 4 nights of peaceful living. Now for the next leg in this adventure....

While in Hilo, I have met several people who have offered potential jobs, booked a photo session, met a woman who has rooms to sublease and locals who want to teach me how to surf. So today, I say aloha, Hilo. For the next month, you are my new home. After April 4th, we will have to see what this trip has in store for me next. Will it be more farms or a new apartment? Since 5 days ago I found us all sitting at a bus stop with no where to go, and now we are integrating into the town, I cannot begin to guess what will happen next...